|
From: Scott, Aberbargoed, Age
19 |
|
Question: |
I have always been interested
in playing professional snooker since I was eight. I used to
play regularly but was never coached professionally but
since I have passed my driving test I have decided to take
up coaching. Should I bother or is it to late to become a
professional. |
|
Answer: |
It is never too late, though
successful young players today are making century breaks
from the age of 10. The only way to know for sure is to
enter Welsh events and see how you compete. This will
quickly tell you where you stand.
John Dobson is the Secretary of the WBSA Coaching Foundation
and will let you know about qualified coaches in your area.
John will also have details of all next year's competitions.
His email address is
jdobsonsnooker@aol.com. |
|
From: Ysgol y Strade,
Llanelli |
|
Question: |
How can I improve my game? I
am short and use the rest for the majority of the shots in a
frame. |
|
Answer: |
To avoid using the rest you
need to improve your positional play. This means having more
control over where the cue ball finishes for your next shot.
This can be done through corrected practice with the help of
a qualified snooker coach.
If you are using the short rest for the majority of shots,
here are some tips that may help to improve your rest play:
● Use the low side of the rest;
● Recommended grip is thumb nearest head with knuckles of
hand on the line of the shot. All fingers wrapped around the
clue and using the ‘V’ or ‘ring’ (formed by the thumb and
first finger) to dominate the grip;
● Ensure the tip is as close to the cue ball as possible
without touching it;
● The shaft of the rest and the cue should be in line
whenever possible;
● The rest head should be 9 – 12 inches from the cue ball;
● The cueing arm should form an ‘L’ shape in the address
position with the cueing forearm as near to parallel with
your chest as possible;
● The head should be lifted to ensure it does not interfere
with the feathers and final backswing;
● The feathers (practice swings) for a rest shot can be the
same as your normal cue action, but the follow through when
using the rest should be curtailed (1 – 2 inches depending
on the power required);
● Your shot selection with the rest should be more
conservative as this implement is not easy to use when
attempting shots with a high degree of difficulty. |
|
From: Paul Watkins |
|
Question: |
Can you tell me how to get
better at long pots, Especially the straight ones. |
|
Answer: |
Long potting is one of the
more difficult skills to master. Over distance any
weaknesses in our technique will be exposed.
The grip and the fingers are important for long potting, but
only in conjunction with a myriad of other technical aspects
that need to be in tune.
Improving your 9 foot pots can be done through guided
practice - in conjunction with a qualified coach. That is
practice based on guidance you have been given by a
qualified snooker coach. |
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From: Roy Gullick, Middlesex,
Age 17 |
|
Question: |
Can you tell me where I
should aim when potting balls with side? |
|
Answer: |
Sidespin is a very difficult
skill to master and should really be left alone until you
can constantly hit the ball straight with centre ball
striking.
When playing with side spin the cue ball will not act is it
would when centre striking is applied. How the ball will
react will depend on the power used, the amount of sidespin
applied, how far off level your cue is, your tip height and
even which way up or down the table you are playing.
With right hand side applied the cue ball will usually
'throw' to the left to start with and then 'recover' to the
right. The distance between the two balls, the power used
etc. will again give you different results.
For help in this area of the game it is vital you seek the
help of a qualified coach for help. |
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From: Ree |
|
Question: |
I like snooker very much.
Thanks to using your coaching video I have made many breaks
over 80. I had a close friend and we play once a week, but I
never play well against him (normally not more than 20
breaks for 6-7 hours). He is not a good player with
highest break 10+. But every time the day before
playing him I made at least two breaks over 70. Then the
next day after playing him, I made a similar break (all play
on the same table but against different people). I started
to get fed up playing him and can you help because this has
been on my mind for a year. |
|
Answer: |
My first thought was to get
you to play your close friend one day earlier or one day
later - these are the days when your breaks are at their
best!!
All jokes aside though it does appear you have a problem
with playing this particular person. Maybe your opponents
style is not best suited to your game. Take time to think
about his style and the best way to counteract it.
You are probably in a very poor mental state before you play
your close friend. As a result of a string of bad
performances against this person you are likely to be in a
negative mindset before you start. You must buck this trend
and be more positive - you have stated to me that he is not
a better player than you. Focus 100% on your own game and
things that are in YOUR control. Things that are outside
your control cannot be affected by you - so ignore them.
When you get a chance against this person give every shot
100% concentration and effort. The person you are playing is
sitting down - he should not be affecting you if your mind
is strong.
You may have technical issues that only show themselves when
you are anxious or under pressure. Contact a qualified coach
to give your cue action a once over. |
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From: Paul, Sunderland |
|
Question: |
Having played snooker for a
number of years, I have no bother knocking in breaks during
practice - i.e half a dozen or so centuries and regular 60's
70's and 80's. I find it impossible to re-create this during
match play (league + pro-ams). I know it is only
psychological, but is there any thing that can help ?
(without hypnosis of course !!) |
|
Answer: |
I would suggest your first
port of call should be with a qualified coach. There are
many technical faults which are far more likely to show up
only when you under the pressures of a match situation. A
qualified coach may be able to help you with this.
Another thing to think about is whether or not you are doing
the same things in practice as you do in a match. Some of
the things you may look at are, do you play quicker or
slower in a match when compared with practice, do you
prepare yourself mentally for practice in the same way as
you do for a match. There are a number of other areas you
could look at also. It is important to note that you
practice to be able to perform well when it counts - during
a match. You must use the same routines for your practice
sessions as you use for a match. This will enable you to be
better prepared for match play.
Another possible option is a visit to a sports psychologist
to see if there are any mental issues that are hampering you
during match play. |
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From: James Lawler, Liverpool |
|
Question: |
I'm not sure if you've seen the series
of articles on the world snooker website by Pete Lindsay who
is a sport psychology consultant?
In the first article he asked what
percentage of snooker you believe to be mental, physical,
tactical and technical? I was wondering how you'd answer
this? |
|
Answer: |
As I have said in previous
responses my work is carried out on the technical side of
the game.
However, anyone who knows me will know I am not short of a
humble opinion or
two in many areas in which I have no qualifications!!
For professional players I would say the split is as
follows:
80% mental
5% physical
5% tactical
10% technical
For beginners or club players I would assume that the
technical and tactical issues would carry a greater
weighting.
All professional players have a sound tactical base and a
technique that will be repeated (in the main) because of the
amount of time they spend on the practice table. This is why
I believe the mental side plays such a massive part in the
professional game. |
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From: Nasir, Pakistan |
|
Question: |
My problem is that when I
play a long shot, I aim well and hit the tip straight, but I
can't pot the ball because of my grips. Something is wrong
with it, not all the time, but some of the time. What should
I do to correct this error? |
|
Answer: |
My previous reply to Henry
Lau will give you some basic tips for shape and strength of
grip.
However, if your problems are not consistent you will
definitely need the help of a qualified coach to pinpoint
any area that you need to work on. |
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From: Gary Williams |
|
Question: |
I have just turned 16 years
old and i have been playing the game for a year. My highest
break is 62 and I regularly make breaks over 40. But when I
go into a match, all of the good play I produce in practice
goes and I start thinking about technical things like my
stance. And once I start doing that I lose concentration and
then more times than not lose the match I am playing. Is
there anything you can suggest that I could do that would
make me stop thinking like this. |
|
Answer: |
Although it is often easier
said than done, your technical thoughts should be left on
the practice table. Hard work on the practice table should
result in a routine that serves you well in a match -
without thinking about it.
In a match try to use a routine that will focus your mind on
the task in hand - a safety or a pot for example.
Concentrate on one pot (and positional outcome) at a time
and give it 100%.
Visualising the shot in its entirety is one way to help give
you a positive feel and keep the mind on the task rather
than worrying too much about your technique.
When playing the shot concentrate 100% on achieving your
desired outcome rather than how you intend to achieve it.
If you continue to struggle in this area of your game you
should seek the help of a qualified coach. Best of luck. |
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From: Paul Benn |
|
Question: |
Is the potting theory based
on super imposing the white on to the object ball while you
are down on the shot i.e. half ball, quarter ball? I find
this very difficult as you can't get as low as the level of
the table. Also what advantage do you get by looking at the
object ball before you strike? I try this without success as
I don't know the spot on the ball to look at before I fire,
but if I did surely it would not matter as long as I send
the cue ball in the right direction. Thanks, Confused
snooker player! |
|
Answer: |
The ball coverage theory you
mention to help select the correct potting angles has long
been one of the accepted methods in snooker coaching.
Another method used by many players is where they select a
spot on the object ball. This spot (for a pot) would be the
furthest point, on the object ball, away from the back of
the pocket.
One of the reasons that getting your eyes on to this spot is
seen as an advantage, is that it helps to keep your head
square to the line of the shot and therefore improves the
chances of dropping your cue on to the correct line.
It is not easy to explain all the advantages and different
methods available to you in an email response.
I would suggest that you seek the help of a qualified coach
to help you more in this area of your game. |
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From: Praveen Singh, India |
|
Question: |
I want to know about side
spins. What is check side and what is running side?
Sometimes check side behaves like running side. What is the
effect of nap of cloth has on side? What effect does cushion
nap have on the cue ball. Why do cushions have clockwise
nap. |
|
Answer: |
Check side will generally
'close' (or reduce) the angle that the cue ball comes off
the cushion and running side will generally 'open' (or
increase) the angle that the cue ball comes off the cushion.
Be careful not to mix up left and right hand side with check
and running side. Left hand side can be running or check
side depending on which direction the ball is travelling
towards a cushion. The same is true for right hand side.
When a ball travels straight onto a cushion (that is it will
come straight back towards you along the same line with
centre striking), then you are using left or right hand side
only and check and running side do not apply.
Check side never acts like running side. This is a
misapprehension based on a lack of understanding of the
difference between left and right hand side and check and
running side (as explained above).
The nap of the cloth has very little affect on the side
imparted. It will however have an impact on the amount of
'throw' and 'recovery' the cue ball experiences when side
spin is imparted.
Cushion nap has little noticeable effects on the cue ball. I
am unsure why the cushions on your table have a clockwise
nap.
I hope this helps. Good luck. |
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From: Rodney McCallum |
|
Question: |
Hello Terry I have just
purchased a new cue and it is very sticky to play with what
is the best way to clean my cue without wrecking it. |
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Answer: |
I Have replied to a question
like this before. Please refer to Roy Gullick's question and
answer below. |
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From: Alexey, Vladivostok,
Russia |
|
Question: |
Please can you explain the
definition of timing for me. |
|
Answer: |
Good timing is when the tip
of your cue is travelling at its fastest as it hits and goes
through the cue ball. This allows the tip to stay in contact
with the cue ball for a fraction of a second longer giving
you the most efficient strike of the ball (assuming you have
delivered your cue level along the correct line). |
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From: Paul, Liverpool |
|
Question: |
l play in a club
league & there are not a great deal of serious players. l
regularly hit 70, 80 breaks, and have been told i am wasting
my time in the small leagues. i feel i should try out
playing better players, because i feel i could give them a
game. i feel i can go further, so how can i enter the
qualifying events in the big tournaments? |
|
Answer: |
The way to advance in, and on from,
the amateur game in snooker is to enter your country's
amateur ranking events. Tournaments are run throughout the
country with ranking points attached. You need to get
yourself into these tournaments and up the ranking list
before you can see any chance of advancement.
In England your amateur association is
the EASB. Their website is currently under review. Go to
www.easb.co.uk
and leave your email address. They will then contact you and
you can ask how to enter the tournaments they have lined up |
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From: Kate |
|
Question: |
My 15 year old brother has
been playing snooker for some time and regularly achieves
breaks in excess of 50. Although I believe this is very good
for a boy his age, I think it is excellent considering he
has had no coaching from anybody and is self taught.
I am contacting you in the hope of finding some sort of
coaching for him or even details of any up and coming
tournaments. |
|
Answer: |
You need to contact us again
to let us know which area you live in, then we can tailor
our answer accordingly. |
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From: Babak |
|
Question: |
Could you please let me know
that what you exactly mean of " Positive Thrust " in this
sentence ?
" The delivery consists of one positive thrust of the cue
from the pause at the end of the final backswing to the
completion of the follow through. " |
|
Answer: |
'Positive thrust' in this
instance means, from the end of your final backswing and
after your brief pause, a forward motion of your back hand,
wrist and forearm, moving the cue forward until your back
hand comes to a stop against your chest (the completion of
the follow through). Although this movement needs to be
positive it should not be too fast. Getting the speed of
delivery right is all about the search for the often elusive
'perfectly timed delivery'.
To get a consistent follow through of the correct length by
stopping at your chest you need to have certain things in
place in the address position (with your tip at the cue
ball).
Without seeing you this is very difficult to achieve. I know
I say it in most of my answers, but you really need to seek
the help of a coach to help you in this technical area. |
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From:
Roy Gullick, age 17,
Middlesex, England |
|
Question: |
Can you tell me the best
possible way to make the shaft very smooth, because I
recently bought a new cue but it rubs against my hand and
squeaks and I end up having to play with the clubs cues. |
|
Answer: |
The best thing to use to keep
your cue as smooth as possible is a slightly damp cloth. Do
not use a wet cloth as this may raise the grain on your cue
- especially ash cues.
Wipe your cue down with a damp cloth as often as possible
and this will keep the grease and dirt down to a minimum.
If your cue is heavily lacquered a damp cloth may not always
be the answer. Your options with a heavily lacquered cue are
narrowed to buying a new cue or using some sort of aid for
smoothness, talc or chalk on your bridge hand for example.
You can also buy fine gloves to wear on your bridge hand to
prevent rubbing.
Do not be tempted to sand the shaft of your cue as this
again exposes the grain and could lead to your cue getting a
warp.
I hope this information helps. |
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From:
Tashi, age 17, Malaysia |
|
Question: |
I have just started to play
snooker. Please tell me about the basics, such as grip,
stance and cue action. Also can you tell me about the right
technique of aiming. |
|
Answer: |
All the information you ask
for is available on a CD for your PC. The CD is called 'Play
Better Snooker' and covers all the aspects you ask about.
This is available through the Global Snooker Centre website
on
www.globalsnookercentre.co.uk |
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From:
T. M. Jermy |
|
Question: |
Hi. Can you tell me what your nick name
is please? |
|
Answer: |
It's Griff - very original!! |
|
From:
Lee Johnson, Swansea |
|
Question: |
I am a third year degree student,
studying Bsc sport science at Swansea University. I understand that
you have also recently coached previous world champions and legends of
the game Mark Williams and Stephen Hendry so obviously have a vast
knowledge of the game, and excellent coaching techniques.
I have chosen to work on some of the psychological issues in snooker,
with the title of my paper being 'The effects of temporal anxiety and
stress, pre and post performance in snooker'. I understand because I
play myself that snooker, being a closed skill, is very dependant on
psychology. So I was wondering if you could provide me with some
information from your own point of view on : -
Stress and Anxiety before a vital match in snooker (e.g. prior an
important championship match)
The effect increased arousal/stress levels have on performance
Obviously when you, (or Mark and Stephen) progress further in a big
tournament pressure is likely to increase, does this deteriorate your
performance, and how do you cope with this increased pressure, i.e. do
you have special pre match rehearsals, or things you do before every
match (superstition etc).
With snooker being a complex skill, the slightest of movements could
mean the difference between potting and missing by a large margin, how
do you, or your two champ's cope during a match, do you have any
special techniques to help you focus and prevent unforced errors. |
|
Answer: |
I am afraid I am not qualified in any
way to answer questions in this area. My area of expertise is in the
technical aspects of the game of snooker. I fear I would be opening a
can of worms for myself if I was to attempt to answer questions away
from the technical side of the game.
I am sorry I cannot be of any assistance in these matters.
Good luck with your dissertation. |
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From:
Akash Nayak |
|
Question: |
What should be the distance from the v
of the bridge to the cue ball. I make regular 80 breaks what practise
will help me to improve my game further. Should I do solo practise or
play more frames and what should i do in solo practise? |
|
Answer: |
The accepted range of distance for the
thumb of your bridge hand from the cue ball is 9 - 12 inches (23-30
cms). It may be beneficial to alter this distance depending on the
shot you face.
There are a number of factors that could help decide how far you, as
an individual, may want your bridge from the cue ball. To discuss
these and to understand the benefits of moving your bridge hand
closer/further away for certain shots, I would suggest you contact a
qualified coach for further instruction.
Regarding your question on solo against competitive play, please refer
to my previous answer to Alex from Llanelli.
For your question on taking your game on from 80+ to century breaks,
please see my previous answer to Chang from Malaysia. |
|
From:
Evelyn Topping, age 43,
Leicestershire |
|
Question: |
I am interested in sports psychology
and wondered if you had noticed any connection between personality
type/temperament and success on the snooker table. It seems that the
most successful players in terms of tournament wins are often the
quieter, less flamboyant characters. E.g. Stephen Hendry and Steve
Davis compared to Jimmy White and Ronnie
O'Sullivan. I would be most interested to hear your views on this. |
|
Answer: |
I am afraid I tend to avoid answering this type of question as my area
of expertise (apparently) is in the technical side of the game.
I will say that snooker is a game that needs a very strong
temperament. Much of the game is played in the mind and often your
most difficult opponent is yourself. There are hundreds of players
capable of playing, in practice, to the standard of the top players
you see on the television. However, the players you see at the very
top of the game have the match temperament to give them the edge.
My opinion on what makes for a good match temperament - well that
would be telling! |
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From:
Huw Thomas, Edinburgh |
|
Question: |
I am from Llanelli but now live in
Edinburgh but will be returning home for Christmas as usual this year.
My 12 year old son and I love to play snooker whilst we are down. The
only problem which puts is off is that we don't like the smoke in the
snooker room as our clothes smell strongly of smoke when we leave and
its bad for our health.
Whilst there are plans to ban smoking in some open places in the
future, would it be possible for Terry Griffiths Matchroom to seize
the initiative and consider introducing non-smoking ahead of the game.
This I'm sure would help to make snooker more 'family friendly' and
bring in more youngsters? The alternative would be have a separate non
smoking snooker room? |
|
Answer: |
My son enthusiastically encourages me
to give up smoking and, like you, is not a fan of smoke in our club.
We have now introduced a smoking ban at the bar in the Matchroom. It
would be a bold decision to ban smoking in the club completely - a
step we are not yet ready to take - though we are mindful that this
may well be imposed sooner rather than later! At this stage we will
follow the will of those who must be obeyed.
In an attempt to help with your predicament, can I offer the
following. We have a private room and a Matchroom - both behind closed
doors. Let my son Wayne know when you are coming to the club and he
will ensure that one of these rooms are available to you. They are not
non-smoking rooms, but we will do everything to ensure you have a
smoke fume free experience.
Thanks for your question and we hope to see you soon - despite our
smoking policy |
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From:
Geoff Warwick , UK |
|
Question: |
No matter how carefully I set up and
how many times I practice, when I play the cue ball along a line or
over the brown, blue, pink and back spots from black onto the end
cushion the cue ball always kicks off the cushion slightly to the
right. I've watched your video and read several books but don't know
how to change my stance, grip or cueing action to stop putting side on
the ball. Can you help? |
|
Answer: |
Unintentional side is a problem faced
by players at all levels of the game - some obviously have greater
problems than others!
It is almost impossible to solve your problem in this forum. The cause
of your unintentional right hand side could be any one of a number of
problems. Altering one area of your technique without seeing you could
cause a major problem elsewhere in your action.
I am afraid I can only suggest that you seek the advice of a qualified
coach.
He or she will be able to see the dynamics of your cue action from
start to finish and should be able to start you down the road to
correcting any problem you may have.
Sorry I cannot be of any more help than this. |
|
From:
Graham Dingwall, age 28,
North East England |
|
Question: |
I have recently purchased your WPBSA
coaching video. I was very impressed with the section covering the
technical aspects of the cue-action, with regards to the grip, and its
particular involvement in relation to the relative strength of each
individual shot being played. I am quite happy with my own cue-action
and can play most shots, and still keep the cue on a straight line and
level throughout the back-swing and follow-through.
However, there seems to be two schools of thought as regards sighting
the object ball. Steve Davis talks about imagining the cue ball
covering the object ball (i.e. ¼ , ½ , ¾ ball contacts). I have tried
this method and find it very difficult to distinguish between say a
slightly less than ½ ball pot for example.
Throughout your video you talk about the cue-ball hitting the spot
furthest away from the pocket. This is also consistent with what Frank
Callan talks about in his book. From the video section on potting, 3
quarter and half-ball pots are illustrated, but still refer to this
spot on the object ball furthest from the pocket no matter where the
cue-ball is in relation to the object ball.
I find that with this method, one does not need to worry about potting
angles and only need to estimate the spot on the object ball which is
furthest away from the pocket. This method is very practical and does
work with practice. However; a problem I seem to have is that when I
have selected the correct spot on the object ball, and take up my
stance while still looking at this spot, some times I am not lined-up
through the middle of the white and will be slightly of centre. Most
top players just seem to get down and are automatically finding the
centre of the white ball. I am a left-eyed, and sight with my left eye
directly over the cue.
Can you suggest a method for me to line-up the cue ball to hit this
correct spot on the object ball or is it just a question of practice,
ability and good judgement before one takes his stance. |
|
Answer: |
I am afraid Graham, that your question
is one of those that is very difficult to answer in this forum.
You obviously have a good level of technical knowledge that has led
you to ask such a question.
All I can advise I am afraid is that you seek the help of a qualified
coach.
The answer to your question lays deep in the technical aspects of the
game. The cause of your problem could be a number of things. The
corrections required may also involve a range of things.
Without actually seeing you play I am afraid I cannot give you a
definitive answer to your question. What I can say in reply is that
practice, ability and good judgement are all required in order to
achieve the correct 'line', but without a coach to help you, some of
these skills can be difficult to achieve on your own. |
|
From:
Simon Hopkins, age 16,
Swansea |
|
Question: |
I wonder whether you can help me in my
game because I have a bit of a problem. I seem to miss and miss-cue a
lot of my shots using the rest, my question is: Am I supposed to hold
the top end of the snooker cue the same way as i do on a normal shot
when playing a shot with the rest ? And have you got any suggestions
on how i can improve my rest shots ? |
|
Answer: |
Here are some basic tips that should be
used with the rest:
Getting your tip as close to the cue ball as possible is vitally
important. This is even more important with the rest as you only have
a short time where your cue can be delivered along a straight line. If
you are 3 inches from the cue ball at address, there will be times
when you move the cue off line before you even hit the cue ball – this
will result in unintentional side spin. In the address position drop
your tip down to the baize to give you an idea of how far your are
from the cue ball and make the necessary adjustment.
Keep your cue as level as possible at all times. Avoid raising the
butt of the cue. This causes you to have a steep, downward attack on
the cue ball and could be one of the reasons for your miss-cueing;
The ‘X’ of the rest should be about the same distance from the cue
ball as your bridge hand is for your normal cue action (approx. 30 cms).
The rest head too close will mean you have to raise the butt of the
cue too high for backspin and causes the same problem as mentioned
above. The rest too far from the cue ball will leave too much cue past
the rest head and can make control difficult;
Your follow through with the rest should be much shorter than your
normal cue action, giving you a ‘stabbing’ sort of action. This
reduces the chances of your cue moving off line;
Try and get an ‘L’ shape with your right arm. This again gives more
chance of keeping the cue on line for a long enough period of time to
make a straight delivery along your selected line.
There are other things that could be looked at (with your coach
maybe), but these guidelines should help.
The only other thing worth mentioning with the rest is practice. Many
players are concerned about their ability with the rest, but most
people do not spend time practicing this difficult skill. Give it some
time in your solo practice sessions. |
|
From: Roy Good, age 46,
Helston, Cornwall |
|
Question: |
Would it be possible for you to tell me
if Stephen Hendry is looking at the cue ball or the object ball when
he strikes the cue ball. And do all top pro's do the same? |
|
Answer: |
Stephen Hendry tends to look at the
object ball as he strikes the cue ball. Most players tend to be
looking at the object ball as or just before they strike the cue ball
as this is the method advocated by most coaches.
Players will tend to get their eyes onto the object ball for the final
time at different stages towards the end of their action. Some will
get their eyes up on to the object ball during the brief pause at the
end of their final backswing, while some players (often older players)
like to get their eyes up sooner in their action (during their final
backswing or even during a brief pause before they start their final
backswing) as their eyes take a little longer to focus.
Not all players get their eyes up to the object ball before striking
the cue ball and some will have different methods depending on the
distance between the cue ball and object ball.
Where you are looking just before striking tends to be a natural
reflex. If at anytime you are thinking of changing your sighting at
different points in your action, I would advise you do so under the
guidance of a qualified coach as alterations in this technique may
have consequences elsewhere in your action. |
|
From: Simon Poole, Chicago, IL. USA |
|
Question: |
Terry -- What is your recommendation
for holding the cue. Do you have 2 fingers and a thumb holding the
cue, and the other fingers touching the cue. What about when the cue
is going back vs. going forward. Also, what about holding the cue for
a screw shot vs. a follow-through shot. |
|
Answer: |
For my recommendations regarding grip
of the cue, please see my response to Henry Lau from Australia. I
think that will answer the main elements of your question.
One area it does not cover is your question about the grip for a screw
shot compared to a follow through shot. It is not advisable to have
different grips for different shots. I would say that your grip should
have the same fundamentals in place for both screw shots and follow
through shots (and any shot in between). Be aware that there is a
tendency to grip the cue too tightly for screw shots. This can
transfer tension to the cue arm and can often lead a mis-cue as a
result of a 'quick' delivery. Try and maintain the same strength of
grip for all shots.
I hope this helps. If you are still having problems with this area of
your game I'd suggest you contact a qualified snooker coach to get
a better idea of what may be happening.
Good luck! |
|
From: Brian Robertson, UK |
|
Question: |
Hello Terry.
I love snooker & play it regularly. my
highest break is 80 but i feel i can do better because i play 'hundred
break players' regular & beat them half the time. i seem to miss easy
balls when i end a break. is there a secret to maintaining your
concentration? |
|
Answer: |
There is more to playing snooker than
making high breaks. If you are beating the 'hundred break' makers you
must be doing something right! Remember we compete in snooker to win.
Making an 80 break will almost invariably win you the frame.
We all miss simple pots at some time or another. Even top players will
sometimes miss what seems an 'easy' pot - though they tend to do this
far less often than the majority of club players.
As you correctly assume this is generally down to a lack of
concentration. Golf coaches talk a lot about 'staying in the moment'
to help with concentration. This is not easy, but can benefit you if
you are prepared to work hard at sticking to it. It is about being
able to tell yourself that right at this moment, this is the only shot
that matters. You are NOT thinking about this being a frame winning
shot, about making a high break or how this shot will affect the match
(or worse still - what is for dinner this evening!). Your mind should
be simply focused 100% on playing this one shot.
If you can use this technique effectively, even for some of the time,
you should see your concentration lapses decrease in number.
If you want some general help to improve your break building skills,
please see my response to Chang from Malaysia. |
|
From: Chang, age 19,
Malaysia |
|
Question: |
I started playing when I was 11 but
have only really started practicing hard for about a year. I can get
breaks of 20-40 but my break building is not consistent. Can you give
me any training methods to help my break building become more
consistent? |
|
Answer: |
The secret to successful break building
is trying to leave yourself a succession of easy pots.
You must develop your skills enough to
be able to make a succession of pots while positioning the cue ball in
the best possible place to allow you to make your next pot and gain
good position. Repeat this over and over and your breaks will improve.
This is not as easy as it sounds
however!
Here are two routines to help develop
your break building skills:
For many years players have used the
'line up' routine as an aid to improve break building. The line up is
set up by placing each of the colours on their spots. The reds are
then placed in a straight line up the centre of the table. There is no
set rule for the way you set this up, but you may have 2 reds between
the black and the cushion, 5 reds between the pink and black sports, 6
reds between pink and blue spots, 1 red between blue and brown spots
and the final red between the brown spot and the baulk cushion.
While this routine is still widely
used, I am not a great fan of it. I am yet to see a frame where the
reds form a line up the centre of the table!
I prefer to use an 'open table'
routine. Again all the colours are placed on their spots. The reds are
set out around the table in open positions. Most of the reds will be
around the pink and black spots with 2 reds in baulk and 2 reds
between the blue and baulk colours. Start by aiming to clear these 4
reds before moving down to the reds around the pink and black spots.
In both exercises keep a record of your
highest break with the aim of pushing it higher and higher until you
make a total clearance.
The MOST important rule when attempting
either of these exercises is that you MUST start again when you miss.
This is frustrating but concentrates the mind and brings in a little
pressure - good preparation for match play.
There are ways of making these
exercises more difficult as you improve - but that's for another
question! |
|
From: Babak Amin |
|
Question: |
My problem is hitting the shot
straight. I think I send the cue ball a bit to the right. Would you be
kind enough to give me some advice.
I hold the cue right-handed, and I
write right-handed as well, but I play tennis, ping pong, darts
left-handed! |
|
Answer: |
Delivering the cue ball to the left or
to the right of your intended target is invariably a problem with
sighting or with a failure to deliver the cue (tip to butt) along the
correct line.
There are so many possible causes for
this fault that the only advice I can give is for you to contact a
qualified coach for help. Only by having a coach watching your
individual approach to the table and your cue action, can the right
advice be given. |
|
From: Henry Lau,
Age 26, Australia |
|
Question: |
I have a "grip" question for you.
Firstly a bit about myself, I'm 26 and have been playing competitive
snooker in Australia for 6 years now and in practice I've made 3
century breaks.
My problem is, whenever I'm cueing terribly, it's always my grip that
feels "not right" so I am constantly altering my grip until I can pot
good plain balls to a level that I feel is acceptable.
I'll try to explain a couple grips; one grip is where only the thumb
and index finger are used and the other fingers serve no purpose,
another grip is where all the fingers are used and when I cue through
it's the little finger that seems to control the cue. As you can see,
both grips are very
different yet I've made a century break with each.
So my question is... which one should I use? and can you tell me what
the grip should focus on to enable me to cue straight?
I can even go further and start thinking about my fingers, wrist,
elbow, stance, etc. It can be a nightmare sometimes.
Your input would be much appreciated. |
|
Answer: |
A sound technique that is constant from
one day to the next seems to be a rare commodity indeed. There are
many good players who have a solid stance, select a good line and have
a natural aptitude for selecting the correct potting angle.
However, what stops them reaching their full potential is how their
grip functions as the tip of the cue strikes and follows through the
cue-ball. At this vital fraction of a second, you can destroy all your
good preparations. It is impossible to over emphasise the importance
of the grip.
Function of the Grip
When the grip functions correctly it :
a.. initiates the backward and forward movement of the cue;
b.. controls your wrist;
c.. leads the forearm backward and forward;
d.. helps to accelerate the cue through the cue ball; and
e.. together with your eyes, gives you the feel for the shot.
The Grip
There are two key elements to address relating to the grip in the
hitting position - the shape and the strength. While I will separate
from clarity, they have to work as a unit, as one complements the
other.
Shape
In the hitting position all four fingers and the base of the thumb
should be on the cue. Pick up the butt of your cue as if you about to
hit an object with it (a grip similar to one you would use on a
hammer). The knuckles should run parallel to the line of the cue. The
front of the grip should be at 90 degrees to the cue, or as near as
possible.
Strength (Scaling the strength of the grip from 1 - 10, 1 being
the slackest and 10 the tightest)
a.. The thumb and first finger - 7;
b.. The second (middle) finger - 6;
c.. The third finger - 4;
d.. The little finger - 1.
Notes
There should be no tension in your grip at any stage.
The strength of the grip between the thumb and first finger, starting
from the pause at the completion of the final backswing, through the
hitting area, should be constant.
With more powerful shots where a longer backswing is required it maybe
necessary to release your back two fingers slightly. This should only
be done where it is necessary to keep your cue level throughout the
backswing. Introducing over active back fingers when not required can
lead to inconsistency.
Any dominance from the last two fingers, or not returning them on to
the cue correctly, can lead to pulling the cue off line.
Consistently finding the correct shape and strength of grip is
certainly conducive to straight cueing. |
|
From:
Alex, age 14, Llanelli |
|
Question: |
When I practice snooker should it be
against other people or on my own? |
|
Answer: |
To improve your game it is important
that you play on your own and against other players. Solo play is most
important if you are looking at technical changes to your cue action.
You must, however, play against other players in practice as this will
prepare you for competition and will often allow you to learn from
others.
To summarise - you need a balance of
both disciplines depending on what you are trying to achieve in your
game at that time. |
|
|
|
|
From:
Ben, age 11, Five Roads |
|
Question: |
I can't get backspin on the cue ball.
It just stops instead of coming back towards me. Have you got any tips
to help me with this? |
|
Answer |
For backspin shots it is important that
your bridge hand is as flat as possible on the table. This allows you
to get your tip right to the bottom on the cue ball (6 o'clock
position). to get right to the bottom of the cue ball you should also
raise the butt of your cue very slightly. It is very important that
your delivery for backspin shots is a little longer and smoother than
normal. You must ensure that you have a good follow through on your
final delivery - at least 3 inches past the cue ball's original
position (obviously making sure the cue ball does not come back to hit
your tip). Ensure you have no head movement throughout your action. If
you continue to have problems then it would be worth booking a lesson
with a qualified coach for further help. |
|
From:
Andrew Palmer, age 17, Llanelli |
|
Question: |
I sometimes have
back pain after playing snooker. I would like to alter my stance to
feel more comfortable. Will this have a detrimental affect on my cue
action? |
|
Answer: |
If you look at
professional snooker players you will see a range of different stances
- the square on, the "boxer" style stance and a great number of unique
stances. With your back problems it is very important that you have a
stance that cause you the least amount of discomfort yet does not harm
your cue action - after all you are playing snooker for enjoyment!
Your stance needs to be reasonably solid preventing any movement
during your cue action. Your stance must allow you to drop your cue
onto your selected line without any infringement or obstacle (your hip
for example). Finally, your stance must allow you to deliver your cue,
unhindered, along your selected line. As long as these three main
objectives are met you may place your feet in the position that is
most comfortable for you. It may be worth speaking to an osteopath or
physio, to take some advice on the stance that may suit you best. It
may also help to book a lesson with a snooker coach to discuss whether
or not the changes you have introduced will be detrimental to your cue
action. |
